From the book "Cinematography" by Kris Malkiewicz (chapt. 4)
Hard light casts sharp deep shadow. Direct sunlight. A light with no diffusion.
Soft light casts weaker, washed out shadows. A blue or overcast sky. A light source that is bounced off a reflector. Diffusion placed in front of a light.
The three most pronounced styles of lighting:
- 1) High-key -- Appears generally bright. The lighting is usually soft, diffused, few shadows. The sets and costumes should be in light tones. (like the paintings of Turner, Wistler, and some of Degas.)
- 2) Low-key -- Many deep shadows. Only a few areas are well lit. Don't just overexpose the scene, it is the ratio of dark shadow areas to well lit areas that create a low-key effect. (like the paintings of Rembrandt and Caravaggio.)
- 3) Graduated tonality -- Soft, evenly lit. Weak shadows. Sometimes artificial shadows are painted onto the sets or costumes.
Before the shoot the style or approach should be discussed. It should depend on the mood and character of the story. Drama is usually low key, comedy is usually high key.
You should know what each light is doing for you and why.
Key light -- The main source of light. Traditionally it is placed 45° off the floor. Also, if the actor is looking off camera, the key should come from his side further from the camera, so he is looking between the light and the camera. (but really the possibilities are endless)
Fill light -- Soft light used to fill in the shadows created by the key light. For dramatic low-key effect the fill light is frequently ommitted.
Back light -- Above and behind the actor. Separates the actors from the background. Adds three-dimensionality. This light is often omitted by cameramen who believe in realism and don't want an unmotivated source of light.
Kicker light -- Usually placed on the opposite side of the key light. Often lower to the floor than the back light.
There are two types of light meters: incident and reflected.
- 1) Incident light meters measure the light coming from the light source.
- 2) Reflected light meters measure the light reflected from the subject, such as a spot meter.
An incident light meter is objective and measures the light source regardless of how dark or light the subject is. But a reflective meter reads the light reflected off the subject. A white person's face will read differently from a black person's face. You might want to take a reflective reading off of an 18% gray card placed in front of the actor's face. Be sure to angle the card halfway between the light and the camera to get an accurate reading.
Testing for lighting and exposure is important to get to know a film stock. A test for different lighting ratios should include four set ups: 2:1, 4:1, 8:1, 16:1.
- 4 to 1 ratio means that the brighter side of the face (key plus fill) is four times brighter (in foot candles) than the other side of the face, 100:25. One side is two stops brighter than the other.
For ten seconds shoot a woman dressed in black against a white wall, be sure a gray scale and color chart are in the frame. Expose it correctly. Do it again but underexpose a 1/2 stop. Do a series of takes to cover three stops underexposure and three stops overexposure in half-stop increments. At the end shoot with the correct exposure again. Instruct the lab you want two prints. The first print should be made at a one-light printer setting, set for normal exposure. The second should be timed by changing the printer lights to correct the under & overexposed shots back to normal. The lab reports should indicate the printer lights used on the printer for the three primary colors: red, green, and blue.
Below, the exposure is set for the guy's face. The practical lamp looks convincing in the shot. With a spot meter we know that the lamp is 2 1/2 stops brighter than the face.
Practical lamps in a scene look best if they are 2 to 4 stops brighter than the face. You might want to use a practical light in the shot as your key light. To do this you might have to cut down the light aiming toward the camera, use a scrim or a neutral density gel. Also, you might want to increase the light on your subject by cutting out part of the lamp shade on the other side.
For a candle light scene:
- The key light must appear to be coming from the candle.
- The circle of candle light can be coming down from a light directly above the candle.
- Two 500-watt baby Fresnels used as key lights, a "backcross" in back of the actors.
- Be sure to keep the key to about 25 foot-candles so the candle will seem brighter.
A common lighting problem is when an actor moves towards or away from the key light. To keep the light levels the same, use half-scrims on the light. The lower part of the beam is reduced and the light on the actor remains the same as he moves around.
Kodak Lighting setups
Amistad (AC mag. 1-98)
Director Steven Spielberg
D.P. Janusz Kaminski$40 million
2 weeks of tests for preparationThere were about 10 different lighting situations, like a football team calling plays. One setup took 7 minutes. No matter how big the scene, they could get good soft light in 7 minutes. A Muslin bounce, in front 1/2 Soft Frost diffusion frame. They aimed fay lights or other light units into the frame. The 1/2 Soft Frost directionalized it and stopped it from spreading everywhere.
They used the ENR process and sometimes used black nets behind the lens for filtration. It was okay if light hit the backgrounds because the sets were dark colors.
Normally without the ENR process Kaminski likes to add contrast, such as by flagging. But contrast is inherent to the ENR process so it wasn't necessary.
He also combined ENR with flashing.
With a black net filter behind the lens, added smoke, and ENR, the most simplistic lighting was usually sufficient. A light aimed into a bounce card in front of a face at a certain angle was sometimes all it took.
ENR can be so high-contrast there are no mid-tone ranges, it becomes either black or white. You don't necessarily have to flash to take care of it, but have to fill out the shadows a bit.
Without flashing, ENR becomes slick and elegant and beautiful. With 10-15% flashing, it looks like the sun looks when you are on drugs. It becomes grittier, which is what he wanted for the movie.
They used a Panaflasher to pre-expose his stocks from 7-15%.
- Wide shots about 10%. For a bit more drama or contrast about 7%.
- Used standard white lights in the flashing.
- Adds light to the shadows.
- Adds grain.
- Then applied the ENR, sort of counter-balances by adding contrast and gets rid of the grain. Colors become softer, and highlights a bit more metallic.
- ENR loses grittiness, but flashing makes up for it.
Kaminski is a fan of Philippe Rousselot ("Queen Margot" & "Interview With The Vampire")
- Uses China balls.
- Underexposes in his color pallette, colors are a bit pastel.
- Grainier
- Everything falls very softly into the shadows.
- Faces have a painterly quality.
- Large distance between the object and background, and flat front light.
- Underexposed 2 stops.
- T2 on keylight and shot at T4.
- Mainly shot with Kodak's EXR 5248 and 5293. Pushed 48 a full stop & sometimes 2. Pushed 93 a full stop. Also used Vision 500T 5279 but didn't push it because contrast becomes too high & shadows go a bit greenish & muddy.
Prison scenes
- Hung a white muslin around the set's perimeter. Lit 5 stops brighter than Kaminski's exposure so it would burn out in the b.g.
- 175' x 125' silk from the ceiling. Lit from above and the sides with coop lights aimed through the silk. The units generated about 550,000 watts. Top light 2 stops brighter than the exposure.
- Used smoke, black net filtration behind the lens, and got an image with overblown highlights.
- 12 x 12 frames of muslin on the ground and aimed Dino lights at them, maybe 30% would be reflected - soft, beautiful light.
- In general, shot at T2.8, top light T5.6/8, faces a 1/3 under T2.8. Great!
- Usually 7 minute drill for wider shots.
- For closer shots they used China balls and space lights.
- They wet down the walls and bars with glycerin to enhance the reflectance of the set.
- For candle light didn't want a warm, friendly color, so he lit faces with a warmer light, then the lab yanked out that color so the candle and faces would become pale rather than orange.
For a courthouse scene during the testimony of a British naval officer who has found discrepancies in the Spaniard's account of the Amistad's journey:
- Suffused with rich golden tones.
- Portions shot at 28 frames per second.
- Combination of 3/4 CTO and 1/2 straw gels on the HMI lights, in addition to the 85 correction on the lens.
- Wanted deep shadows and bright sunlight coming through the windows.
- Lights were about 5 stops brighter than exposure.
- Strong beams & hot highlights on objects.
At sea, pretty much natural light and bounce cards.
A Universal soundstage and a Van Nuys airplane hanger were used to recreate ships.
- Lit by rows of Dino lights and nine-light fay units through both diffusion and muslin.
Night exteriors of the Amistad in the airplane hanger:
- Ambient light T1.4.
- Sometimes lanterns on the deck to motivate the keylight, which was T2/2.8.
- Shot at T2.8.
- Even if there were no lantern lights, they still shot a T2.8, it would just be 2 stops under.
Eyes Wide Shut (AC mag. 10-99)
Dir.: Stanley Kubrick
Cinematographer: Larry Smith (had been gaffer on Barry Lyndon and The Shining)Production started in November 1996, finished March '98. Released in July, 4 months after Kubrick died.
In Barry Lyndon a scene in a manor was lit by Mini-Brutes on towers outside through windows with tracing paper.
Kubrick preferred plaster, cement or brick materials for a set, rather than paper or wood.
On Eyes Wide Shut they used existing light fixtures and a minimum of "movie lights." (same on The Shining & Barry Lyndon.)
On Barry Lyndon they used a pair of F.07 Zeiss lenses (36.5mm & 50mm) to film candle-light scenes with virtually no supplemental lighting. They were modified still camera lenses from NASA's Apollo moon-landing program.
Eyes Wide Shut was framed in the standard 1.85:1 format.
Lenses:
- A set of Zeiss Superspeed T1.3 spherical prime lenses.
- Occasionally used Arri's T2.1 variable prime lenses or a zoom.
- Favored wider lenses to show off the sets.
- Most of the movie was shot with the Zeiss 18mm lens, rarely went longer than 35mm.
They used two Arriflex 535B cameras.
Force-developed (underexposed) two stops.
They used Kodak's old EXR 5298 500-ASA stock instead of Vision 500T, even though the 5298 has been discontinued.
- Kodak designs their stocks to be shot in the middle of the sensitometric curve, not at the extreme ends.
- Vision 500T had a blue bias when force-developed that way, but not EXR 5298.
- Force-developing gives you exaggerated highlights - really blown out.
- They pushed everything two stops, even day exteriors, to keep the look consistent. Night scenes had good exposure and depth, good blacks.
At the Christmas party:
- Lit almost entirely with a huge wall of ordinary (low-wattage) Christmas lights. The effect was enhanced by the force-developing.
- No additional lighting in wider shots.
- For close-ups they used China balls with dimmers & 200-watt bulbs. They just walked around with them.
- When the Hungarian first approaches Alice, they created some fill with a smaller curtain of Christmas lights.
Nearly everything was shot at T1.3. Pushing everything gave a warm glow.
Used a Tiffen LC-1 (low-contrast) filter for night interior scenes. It made the lights glow, gave everything a slightly surreal edge.For the night street scenes they used available light.
- Lampposts were right in the frame (on dimmers), 2k single-ended bulbs in them. If out of the shot, would usually turn them up.
- They placed some 300- or 500-watt quartz bulbs on buildings, and other lights, aimed down for pools of light.
- On London streets they used a big blue 18k fixture on a cherrypicker for overall nighttime ambience.
For Tom Cruise walking along Manhattan streets (usually when he's facing the camera), sometimes the backgrounds were rear-projection plates. The plates were shot in NY, sent to London, force-developed and balanced to the right levels. On the street sets they had Cruise walking on a treadmill.
JFK (AC mag. 2-92)
Dir. Oliver Stone
DP Robert RichardsonShot:
- 1.33:1 (almost square, close match to TV screens)
- 1.85:1 (spherical format)
- 2.35:1 (anamorphic)
16mm was Garrison's reality
35mm was the Warren Commission's version of events.B & W footage:
- Stronger graphic quality
- More dramatic
- Larger areas of black
- More silhouettes
- Fewer soft tones
Kodachrome:
- It has more texture than 16mm color neg. film.
- It's rich in contrast.
- Even Super-8 is gorgeous (but grainy).
For the assassination plot scene with Oswald, Ferrie, & Shaw:
- A series of HMI PARs placed directly overhead.
- Bounced the key-light off the table.
- Low, hard light through the near window for edge light
- The faces ranged from 2/3 overexposed (Oswald), to a stop and 1/2 underexposed (those furthest from the table).
Eastman EXR 5248 film:
- It has a cleaner look.
- Used it for almost all interiors, day & night, & nearly all night exteriors. Exposed as recommended.
APOLLO 13 (AC mag. 6-95)
- Shot in super 35 format.
- Spherical lenses, partially for depth of field.
- The lens was never more than 2 or 3 feet from the actors, very intimate.
- Sharp focus.
- True Lies was shot in super 35.
- Super 35 requires making an optical blow up by extracting a comparatively small portion of the image area (see 9-94).
- Interview with the Vampire was shot in super 35 (1-95).
- Improvements were made in the Eastman EXR 5244 color intermediate film, won a technical Oscar for Kodak.
- A blue-green light was used in practicals, and a whiter fluorescent was used on the instrument panels.
- For natural sunlight through the windows, a programmable Cyberlight (used typically for rock concerts). The bulb is Xenon.
- Mostly used 20mm and 35mm Primo lenses. Close-ups usually 75mm Primo.
- In the capsule they used 5293 and 5298, exposed normal and degraded the image by duping 2 or 3 generations.
- In "The Color of Money" they overlapped the edits -- "four frame double cuts" -- for the pool cue ball breaks (6-95, pg. 52).
THE SHAWSHANK REDEMPTION (6-95)
- Primarily used Eastman Kodak 5293, some of the day exteriors were shot on 100 ASA 5248.
- They shot film under daylight balanced sources, but didn't correct the color temperature to the stock's 3200-degree rating.
- Used no correction filters. Gives slightly enhanced contrast, and the shadows always remain cool, even if you print it back.
- If you time it in the lab to correct for the lack of the 85 filter, it never comes back the same.
- They deliberately didn't print it back all the way. Wanted that sort of grey, cool look.
- Everything was lit with soft but directional light.
- Not a lot of fill light.
- Lit to about T2.8 or T3.5, to get decent sharpness and clarity.
- Had more than 25 Maxi-brutes (fixtures consisting of nine PAR 64 lamps) above the sky lights thru slightly staggared layers of diffusion. This shadowed the cell doors, so blondes with 1/2 CTB came in from the walkways just out of frame to fill it in.
- Practicals were dimmed to 2800 degrees kelvin (200 & 250 watt bulbs).
- 1000 watt FCM quartz bulbs were placed behind the practicals.
- For the tungsten units outside large windows and skylights they used 1/2 CTB correction, which was in stark contrast to the dimmed quartz units in the practical fixtures. They gave a kind of nasty oppressive yellow light.
- Always had a full correction between the coolest and warmest lights, so practicals don't change from daylight scenes to night scenes.
RED (Sobocinski & Krzysztof) 6-95
- The judge's house location included 360-degree pans.
- The color brown in background.
- Brown blends with red.
- Deep brown gives the chance to create deep shadows and point out important things with soft lights.
- The overall approach involved eliminating lots of colors, keeping the background simple.
- Used natural light as main source within the judge's house.
- Without lights you don't see anything beyond the windows because it's blown out. But this atmosphere was believable.
- Used the same strategy everywhere in the film, same contrast, same colors, same kind of lighting, mood and atmosphere.
- Part of this approach meant mixing light and shadows in nearly every scene, including exteriors.
- For interior shots natural light dictated the placement of the actors.
- In the house the judge is placed so that you can see only part of his face. He is very closed off. The woman (Valentine) is in the light from the windows, because she is more open as a person.
- Sobocinski likes building up a scene from complete darkness, it allows him to exploit the dark spaces in the frame. Because he was using deep browns in the interiors, he used a similar approach indoors. It was more difficult outside in the light, so he used special screens hanging over the heads of the actors to eliminate the light, then he used light from the side to emulate the lighting used in the interiors.
- The fashion show segment (overhead view of the runway and the surrounding crowd):
- 200 or 300 flashes and stroboscopic lights for that scene, along with 2 or 3 lights to create general lighting. Fortunately, the ceiling was white to reflect the light.
- Lots of deep shadows in the scene, which made it difficult.
- Made many tests with Kodak 5296 (5298 wasn't available)
THE CINEMATOGRAPHER'S MASTER WORKSHOP - LAKE ARROWHEAD 1994 (AC mag. 6-95)
- Toby Phillips edits his own projects on a non-linear Avid Editing System.
- For a David Bowie video, they used a powerful spotlight shot into a four-foot square of 1000H tracing paper, suspended only a few feet above and in front of Bowie. It gave Bowie a soft enveloping light.
- Another Bowie song was lit by several handheld lamps kept in constant motion by crew members wearing black. The moving highlights and everchanging shadows on the blue background were fascinating.
- A more abstract-styled piece was shot at 12fps, then double-printed to maintain sync. Any movement tends to blur at that slow shutter speed (1/25 second), but the static elements of the frame remain sharp.
- Shot a day interior scene to explore the issues of mixed color temperatures, contrast control against bright windows, and the use of practical lamps to motivate light sources.
- A woman standing on a sunlit balcony, she enters a large room and meets another woman in a shaft of light motivated by a doorway but actually created by a 4K HMI. They walk to another window and pause face to face in full silhouette against the bright window. Outside the window was covered with 216 white diffusion gel, bringing the level of the window down to only two stops above the camera exposure setting. Across the room they sit in chairs next to a fireplace. They seem to be lit by two practical lamps with warm shades. The light from the practicals was amplified by a couple of diffused 1Ks and a 2K Zip soft light.
- They shot 5293 and let the daylight go blue in the opening scenes, and boosted the warmth of the fireside scene by gelling those lights with half-CTO.
- The result was a realistic mixture of cool, contrasty light by the windows and warm soft light by the fire. The film stock demonstrated its wide latitude by handling the range of color temperature and contrast very well.
- Diffusing light with cut strips of white 216 diffusion, crumple them into balls, and stuff them into the compartments of an egg crate, creates a diffused yet slightly uneven light - more interesting than the flatter light that results from a flat sheet of diffusion.
- Crumple up sheets of newspaper in tight compressed logs and hide them under burning logs just before rolling camera. Produces a healthy dramatic flame for the duration of the shot.
- A man poisons a pitcher of liquid and serves it to a woman sitting by the fireplace. As he tosses a log on the fire, she drinks, and collapses under the practical light - conveniently allowing for a dramatic final image.
- Used Kodak 5248 film stock.
- Used many small lights, each performed an individual job.
- A 200-watt pepper, suspended on a C-stand directly over the pitcher. It was encased in blackwrap to focus light on the pitcher and gelled with half-CTO to give an amber cast to the drink.
- When an actor is near a light with a color gel, sometimes the color temperature on the actor's face is different than it should be because of unwanted reflected light. This can be avoided by placing white diffusion between the color gel and the actor.
- Low-key bar scene, murky piano bar.
- Shot the same scene with 5296 and 5298 to compare the new Kodak high-speed film stock.
- Low-key effect was achieved by using furniture clamps to suspend inkies and peppers from ceiling beams over each small table, and gelling the fixtures with CTO and half- white diffusion (250).
- 4K Zip was aimed over the tables to give some ambient fill.
- Another 1K, gelled with 1/4 blue, served as a backlight to the piano player.
- The bar itself was lit with two sets of KinoFlo lamps - one hidden ungelled under the bar counter, giving the bartender a neutral glow, the other gelled magenta and laid beneath the stacks of glassware visible behind the bartender.
- The woman at the bar was keyed through diffusion and backlit with a magenta hairlight.
- The scene was photographed with and without the ambient fill.
- Although some details were lost in the darker scene, it proved more dramatic.
- The version in 5298 had a sharper, more saturated look than the one shot in 5296.
- A dramatic scene that illustrated the power of bounced light, as well as the manipulation of colored light, camera movement and wind. The scene: a woman walking toward the camera from a fire in the background to a foreground chair. Entirely backlit.
- A 1200 par HMI from a balcony above shined down on the scene facing the camera.
- Two 4K HMIs gelled with full blue sat on the floor at either corner of the frame, backlighting a chair on each side as well as the entire floor.
- A black curtain was hung behind the camera for negative fill.
- Dressed in black, face painted white, the silhouetted woman approaches the chair, sits down, and picks up a black card.
- A hidden fan behind the woman blows her hair.
- She opens the black card and dramatically lights up her face as the powerful backlight shining over her shoulders bounces off the white surface of the opened card.
- Her face becomes the brightest part of the scene.
- The scene was photographed clear, and then again with a ProMist 1 filter. The ProMist added an ethereal quality with the slight flare from the highlights and a softening of fine details. But some drama was lost in the desaturation of the blacks, causing a general lowering of contrast.
- Always have good communication with the lab:
- Labels on the cans, camera reports, clarity of the slates.
- Each new lighting setup should be accompanied by a grey scale, lit with the exact color of light the cinematographer wishes to be white in that scene.
- If the scene is sunlit, the grey scale should be lit with the same color sunlight at the same time of day.
- If the scene is lit with tungsten light, gelled with CTO for a warm effect, the grey scale should be lit with ungelled tungsten light.
- To minimize grain, rate a 500 ASA stock at 700 ASA when push-processing one stop to 1000 ASA.
- Some cinematographers request specific printer lights; others let the lab timer find the level appropriate to the film. Normally, 5298 should fall in the mid-30s, 5245 in the mid-20s (in the printer light scale of 1 - 50 for each of the three printer lights).
- Few commercial theaters maintain the ideal 16 footlamberts at 5400 degrees kelvin. Most are considerably darker and degrade the image.
- Phillips' preferred diffusion gels includes opal, 216, and 1000 H.
- He likes a pink backlight for brunettes.
- He likes orange or straw backlight for blondes.
- He never puts diffusion too close to a light.
- The further the diffusion is from the lamp, the larger the light source becomes, and the greater the diffused effect.
- If placed directly next to the lamp, the diffusion won't diffuse - it will just act as a scrim.
- For key on Maria, he used two frames of diffusion, one in front of the other.
- Other favorite diffusion setups include 1000H on a 4' x 8' frame in front of a 9-light, or bleached muslin under a Dino light.
Laszlo Kovacs, ASC
- Easy Rider, Ghostbusters, Five Easy Pieces, Paper Moon, Radio Flyer.
- Lighting should be simple - identify the source and follow it in the scene.
- In daylight exteriors always use the sun as backlight.
- The consistency of the source and shadow directions is more important than that of the background.
- Keep faces backlit and filled to match the rest of the scene.
- One alternative to cheating the subject is to silk it and create the back- and side-light with reflectors and HMIs.
- The worst is overhead sunlight.
For this reason, it is preferable to shoot in the winter, when the sun is lowest on the horizon.
- Lighting is painting, creating shadows.
- You are not obligated to light all subjects in a scene evenly.
- If several characters are in a scene, decide which are the most important, and influence the blocking to allow the source light to reach them. Once the featured characters are lit, the others should fall into place at the appropriate light level. The choice of the principal light source determines the look of the scene.
- Location downstairs livingroom that offered an interesting mixture of window light and tungsten practicals.
- First, mixed the blue daylight with the warm tungsten practicals.
- Second, gelled the windows with CTO and stayed with light of a single color temperature.
- Each light should have only one function in order to have a clean result.
- When using nets within a shot to cut down the exposure on a portion of the frame, avoid letting the sun hit the net and create unwanted glare and reflection.
- Kovacs doesn't like diffusion on the lens. He keeps his color correction behind the lens, so that the front of the lens is as clean as possible.
- Primary source of light for the scene was a 12K HMI coming through an off-screen window, imitating the sun. The bright exterior outside the windows was knocked down by a 20' x 20' double net on a frame. Interior ambience was boosted by two tungsten 5Ks, gelled with blue.
- Second setup, windows gelled with CTO, and the blue gel was removed from the 5Ks.
- Kovacs says that a ground glass without crosshairs makes for more interesting framing.
- The second production scene was created in the big hall upstairs: a romantic candlelight table for two, nestled close to the fireplace.
- Shot with 5296 and 5298 using several different diffusion filters.
- Soft F/X 2
- Black ProMist 1
- Black ProMist 1/2 on the close-up
- Since the sources of light were established as the candle and the fire, most lights were gelled with 1/2 CTO.
- Ideally, the fill comes from the camera lens position and wraps around the subject.
- Kovacs placed a large bead board above the camera and bounced an ungelled 1K light into the board.
- Two 2K lights, gelled with 1/2 CTO, were wired through a flicker box to imitate the flicker of a fire.
- Suggestions were:
- For the close-ups, cheat the candle to include it in the frame, or make a "dirty single" with an over-the-shoulder shot.
- Consider the candle a point light source and treat it as a hard light.
- Don't be afraid to let actors move through dark areas in a scene.
- Allow truly black shadows, don't light every step, and follow the sources.
- Study light wherever you are; Notice the source of the light and its effect on subjects.
- Lighting should be a simple recreation of nature.
- If there is no source that could provide adequate light for the scene, then invent an off screen source and keep the lighting consistent with your decision.
Vilmos Zsigmond, ASC
- First achieved fame with "McCabe and Mrs. Miller" (passed to him by Kovacs)
- Won the Academy Award for the cinematography of "Close Encounters of the Third Kind".
- Zsigmond and Robert Altman (dir.) flashed "McCabe and Mrs. Miller" at 15% for the effect they were looking for - old photographic images, pastels, muted colors. (Hollywood movies are too colorful)
- Zsigmond said that the challenge of anamorphic is to use the entire frame, without interfering with the intimacy of the scene. "Don't play the center; play the sides."
- A fog filter was used to lower the contrast and soften the image.
- Used 5254 - tungsten balanced 50 ASA.
- Zsigmond ordered a custom sliding Soft F/X filter from Tiffen for "Intersection". The sliding filter allows the cinematographer to change the diffusion effect from 0 (clear) to Soft F/X #2 (a moderate diffusion). A wide shot of a landscape calls for minute detail and minimum diffusion and to pan over to a close-up of a face that might call for substantial diffusion to smooth unwanted detail. The filter consists of two overlapping long sheets of glass, each gradually attenuated from clear to Soft F/X #2. As the needs of the shot change, the "filter operator" moves the gears that move the glass planes horizontally to achieve the desired level of diffusion at the appropriate time.
- Although it may be more interesting to light at an angle and create shadows on a subject, it is often necessary to use a flatter, softer style to make actors' faces beautiful. This may include a flat front light, the absence of shadows, a strong backlight, and diffusion on the lens.
Exterior scene: A woman walks along the lake shore, backlit by the bright sun, she then turns up the hill and joins a black woman seated in the foreground next to a tree. The scene was photographed in several different ways:
- First was naked and contrasty, showing the full brightness range of the scene.
- Second, brought in a reflector to fill the faces in the shadows. This gave more detail, but resulted in a rather harsh, contrasty feel.
- Third, an HMI light was brought in to fill the actors from a position next to the camera. This gave a softer, more glamorous look to the scene - less realistic, but more beautiful.
Day-for-night
- Works best when the scene is cross backlit, with the scene underexposed two stops.
- Make the sky dark with a grad filter, giving the scene a bluish "moonlight" cast, cutting glare with a pola, and using a diffusion filter on the lens.
- Zsigmond says the trick of realistic lighting is not to look "lit". A softer, cooler look is more credible for moonlight.
- Day-for-night is better for showing scenery and landscape. Smoother and more realistic than shooting night-for-night with lights.
- Day-for-night is harder on the actors - they have to create an "emotional" night in full daylight.
- Dusk-for-night or shooting at magic hour gives the best of both worlds. The fading sunlight gives a soft ambience over the entire landscape, but still gives the actors a more realistic sense of the night. (Disadvantage is that it passes very quickly.)
- Take three wide master shots at "magic hour" - before, during and after the right light.
- Cheat later close-ups with lights later on to match the master wide shot.
- Or, shoot close-ups simultaneously with other camera(s).
- Zsigmond says, "Know what you want in a scene - have it in your head before you start. Put the camera in the right place. Create an expressive mood appropriate to the scene."
PHENOMENON (AC mag. 7-96)
Director: John Turteltaub
Cinematographer: Phedon PapamichaelHigh narrow ceiling -- they hung an overhead bank of "custom coops" (each wired to a dimmer board) for soft top light, designed and built by the gaffer Ian Kincaid.
- They each have four 500-watt bulbs, a translucent bottom and four side panels with skirts that can be rolled up individually to fine-tune the amount of fill.
- Also made a "mus-ball" which was used on "Casino". A cool kind of Chinese lantern. It's draped with muslin, which makes it soft. It has strips of duvateen that hang around it so you can control the direction of the light.
- Also made a 1 sq. ft. box with a light bulb. Used 216 or 250 diffusion on front, with a dimmer. It makes a great eye light but it needs to be close. Delicate reflection in the pupil.
Papamichael used tungsten units on dimmer boards for all night exteriors.
- One unit was similar to a Dino light but used 64 1K Pars instead of 36 1K Pars.
- For moon effect they used a 1/4 blue gel.
- They let other light sources, like street lights, override the moon. The 'Moon look' was only in untouched areas, like a forest or the wilderness.
Papamichael's lighting is naturalistic and logical. He will never backlight someone's close-up and then add a rimlight to the other person in reverse, even if it makes for beautiful photography.
At night Travolta walks down a local street - instead of a big source light that would backlight the street and wash out the pavement, they established pools of light motivated by the streetlamps in the shot.
Papamichael shot with a Panavision and the company's E-Series anamorphic lenses. Film stocks of choice were 5298 and 5293.
Throughout the movie, Papamichael used 4 stages of filtration:
- 81 EF for a slight cooling effect.
- Straight 85 for normal correction.
- 85 plus an 81 EF for a slight warming effect.
- 85 plus Tobacco #1 for the warmest and most magical effect.
- Used the above filters in combination with an 1/8 or 1/4 black ProMist for subtle softening while maintaining rich blacks.
In the forest, to add a golden glow around the characters they used a row of 12 big Dino lights, which read warm in daylight because they are tungsten. It was a misty overcast day, but they managed to create a sunset effect.
Papamichael says 50% of the look is the textures and surfaces and colors.
In the shaving scene they used just one light, coming in from the outside and it wraps the characters perfectly, with minimal fill provided by the bounce off of their own bodies.
Papamichael tries to find a way to let the light wrap the actors' faces without using a lot of fill. He doesn't light to 'ratios', he lights by eye. He'll use a fill light with a dimmer and bring it down until it looks right. He generally used one source, and rarely any fill. He tries to find natural light and places things within it. Then he works on creating natural light and maintaining it throughout the day.
For close-ups he will set the position of a light and see how it wraps around the actor's face.
- Kyra Sedgwick has deep eyes, so he lit frontal with her.
- Robert Duvall takes top-light or even half-light.
- With Travolta, 3/4 frontal, wrapping the light around both of his eyes.
Bluescreen/Greenscreen 101 (AC 12-96)
by Christopher ProbstTo put a talent in an environment too impractical to shoot. 3 techniques:
- Rear-projection
- Front-projection (probably not used anymore)
- Travelling mate compositing (blue, green or red-screen)
Choice of screen color should be the greater difference from the front subject.
- Usually blue, because fleshtones are mostly composed of red & a fair amount of green.
When shooting bluescreen, the blue layer of the film should ideally be exposed only by the blue backing and would contain little or no exposure or info in the red and green layers of the film. But in reality there is some red and green info found on the film negative of the blue screen.
- Pigments or dye on the screen aren't perfect.
- Some "cross talk" between the red, green & blue records within the emulsions of films.
- Light sources often contain red & green energy.
Important to achieve the greatest separation in the negative between the foreground object and backing. Try lighting the background screen and foreground object separately.
Make sure the foreground object is lit to match the composited background.
"Swatch Books & Gels" (A.C. mag. 9-97)
by Andy Sobkovich (p.90)When considering a gel for use:
- What does it do on a 3200° K tungsten lamp, or a 5600° K daylight-balanced fixture?
- What color does it correct to 3200° K or 5600° K?
- How many T-stops are lost?
- What is the precise MIRED (or color temperature) shift created by the get?
In a simple living room set with windows in the background you might want daylight (5600° K) in the background and a much warmer 3200° K on the subject in foreground, but that's a big jump in color. Try a gradual color transition, less visually jarring.
Example A: (see diagram) Unfiltered 3200° K key light on actor's face, "white reference."
Add ¼ CTO to the fill light (1/4 warmer than key)
Add ¼ CTB to actor's backlight (1/4 cooler than key)
Add ½ CTB to the b.g. light (1/2 cooler than key)Example B: (see diagram) If background light is from a window (5600° K) try using that for your starting point with the same gradual color transition.
Add ½ CTB to the 5600° K window
Add ¾ CTB to (3200° K) tungsten backlight (1/4 warmer)
Add ½ CTB to key light (1/2 warmer than b.g. light)
Add ¼ CTB to fill light (3/4 warmer than b.g. light)Though this gives you a good color transition, your keylight is too blue. Either add an 85 filter or the lab can adjust it.
Before the scene, shoot the color reference card lit by the key light, the only light that you want to appear white. The timer can balance the colors to that reference to create the desired skin tone and light transition (see Vilmos Zsigmond's approach 11-95, 11-96)
For video, hold your white reference card in the keylight, only the light you want to appear white, then do a white balance. (see 3-96, ref. charts for telecine)
It's also possible to modify the colors the camera sees by using gels on the lens to affect your white reference. Use swatch book samples as a source for this subtractive filtration.
For video, put a white card in the light source, and a swatch book gel in front of the lens. The gel should be the opposite of the desired color. If everything should be ¼ CTO, white balance through a ¼ CTB gel.
The same with film, but remember to compensate for the light loss from the gel.
The lab can make this reference "white," making the following footage warmer or cooler as a result.
3-color meter reads color temperature as a red-blue shift and either + or - green.
The MIRED System is one method of describing what a gel does to the color temperature of a light. MIRED is an acronym for Micro Reciprocal Degrees.
A MIRED measurement equals 1,000,000 divided by a source's color temperature in degrees Kelvin.
1,000,000/3200 K = 312.5 MIRED
Gel changes are called a MIRED shift.
¼ CTB gel should have a MIRED shift of -34.5, so color temp. of a 3200 K light plus a ¼ CTB gel is 1,000,000/(312.5 + (-34.5)) = 3597 K, a change of +400 K. A ½ blue gel on a 3200 K light should be 4100 K. But usually they're not, so check them.
Bringing Out The Dead (A.C. mag. 11-99)
Dir. Martin Scorsese
Cinematographer Robert RichardsonSets built by designer Dante Ferretti
Scorsese & Richardson wanted a monochromatic, desaturated look. Less colorful. "Skip-bleaching"
- partial or total elimination of the bleach step in printing. Retains more silver, which desaturates the colors & gives deeper blacks. Cooler black & white feel. Overwhelms the red & yellow tones from Manhattan signs at night. More contrast.
Shot in the anamorphic (2.35:1) format. Used Panavision's older C- & E-series anamorphic lenses. (Less contrast. Primos have more contrast.) Richardson likes anamorphic better than spherical Super 35. He says unless a zoom lens is critical, there isn't a big difference between the speeds of the lenses. Likes anamorphic wide open at T2. His 1st assistant could keep focus at those apertures.
1/8 to 1/4 black ProMist filter for less contrast.
No constant light inside ambulance cab. Lights from outside, driving by various light sources.
Shot on Kodak Vision 500T 5279, & some Vision 200T 5274. Some ambulance-mounted shots were shot on Vision 800T 5289 (good for night).
The few day exterior shots were shot on tungsten Vision 200T and not corrected for daylight with lens filtration to keep the cool feel of the rest of the film. (It was supposed to be dawn.) Also, they tried to shoot in the shade. And underexposed by about a stop to give a bit of a day-for-night look
"Sunshine" in Hawaii (A.C. mag. 11-99)
Dir. Darren Grant
Cinematographer Aaron SchneiderMusic video for Coko's song "Sunshine" shot in Hawaii
Shot reversal stock: Ektachrome, 160-ASA daylight-balanced 5239 stock.
- More colorful
- Designed in late 1950s.
- Less sharp, flattering to faces, especially women.
- Most people overexpose negative stocks slightly to get a thicker
negative and blacker blacks. But with reversal you should underexpose a half stop for saturated blacks.- Glorifies the high-contrast look. The "home-movie" look. A lot of
contrast between the sunlight and the shadow. But the stock dies without contrast. Negative is good on a cloudy or low-contrast day, there's more information. Reversal's view of light is narrow, if all you have is midtones, that's all you're going to have on the print.Shot with anamorphic lenses
- Arri-35 and Hawk anamorphic lenses, same series used to shoot Star
Wars: Episode I.- More headroom in anamorphic movies because the lenses go soft
toward the top and bottom.- Vertical lines and faces tend to bow, especially with wide-angle
lenses.- Soft backgrounds; depth of field falls off more quickly.
Used a Tiffen Soft F/X filter for close-ups.
- Doesn't affect the light as much as the resolution of the lens.
- Adds an extra layer of glass that decreases the clarity of the image.
Doesn't diffuse the image, just takes the edge off. (unlike a ProMist or fog filter.) If the lens is too crisp (example: seeing too much make-up) just add that extra layer of glass.
Fight Club (A.C. mag 11-99)
Dir. David Fincher
Cinematographer Jeff CronenwethIn normal reality situations they wanted it to look bland and realistic.
- Heavily desaturated colors.
- Used much available light - natural and practical.
Panavision Platinum cameras with Primo prime lenses.
Kodak EXR 5248 and Vision 250D 5246 for daylight exteriors and some day interiors. Vision 500T 5279 for remaining interiors and night sequences.
Some night exteriors flashed about 5% in the lab.
Rated the stocks at their recommended ISO specifications, printing lights in the high 30s to low 40s.
The lab will treat some prints to an 80-IR level of ENR.
2.35:1 aspect ratio
Super 35
- Flexibility in composition.
- Less equipment, less light.
Much toplight, many fluorescents in the ceiling.
Light on actors' faces were usually:
- Top-light ambience.
- A back edge- or halflight, motivated by practicals. (didn't want to see directly
into their faces. Separated from their environment.)- Faces usually underexposed 1 ½ to 2 stops.
- Eyelights - Obie lights & Kino Flos taped to the matte-box - usually kept 3 stops under.
- Lit faces mostly with Kino Flos covered with ¼ CTO and muslin.
Interior of an old, decaying house - played the lighting down, usually underexposed the walls by 2 to 2 ½ stops, could barely see them.
T2.3 for most of the movie, shallow depth of field.
For a basement scene used many small, clamp-on aluminum work lamps you can get from Home Depot for $2, with 60-watt household bulbs in them. Used them everywhere in the film.
The Last Picture Show (A.C. mag. 3-99)
Dir. Peter Bogdanovich
DP Robert Surtees
Interview with Robert Surtees (1972)Also shot: The Graduate, The Bad & the Beautiful, Ben-Hur, Intruder in the Dust, Mogambo, Oklahoma, Doctor Dolittle.
Bogdanovich is a big fan of Citizen Kane.
Wanted "The Last Picture Show" to look like it was shot by an experienced amateur who could hold the camera steady and who liked to drop in on people and photograph them.
Walls were lit soft, flat, lights hidden on the floor.
Shot it in 8 weeks.
When Gregg Toland shot Citizen Kane he really exaggerated the depth of field, which meant using a lot of light. He also removed the irises and replaced them with metal slides with small holes drilled in them.
B & W is more difficult than color.
- Must model the subject with light. Can't count on colors for separation.
- Difficult to maintain proper balance between key and fill.
- In color film, ratio 10-to-1 is all it can handle between brightest and darkest
objects. Night exteriors you usually light to a 4-to-1. B & W can handle brightness contrast ratio of about 100-to-1, which is more dangerous. When you stop down you pick up contrast, so to match scene to scene you need to figure out how much extra fill to add to make the contrast match the other scene.Shot almost all of Picture Show at f8 or f10, extreme depth of field (600 foot candles).
Outside used Eastman Plus-X negative, ASA 80.
Inside used Double-X, more grain, but rated at ASA 250 and can be pushed to ASA 1500 if necessary. (Didn't push the film.)
Would have got better quality using Plus-X indoors but would have required more light. Quality wasn't as important as looking real.
He doesn't use backlight anymore unless it's established as coming from a source.
Doesn't break up the walls with shadow patterns - that's old-fashioned (but for a glamour picture is OK).
Used a 28 mm lens for the entire movie!
Orson Welles told Bogdanovich that a zoom lens creates artificial movement. It's a magnification of an object. Dollying gives you a different perspective.
Lighting the firelight scene (inside of teepee) from "Dances With Wolves" - Dean Semler (video tape)
3 sets of 3 tota lights hidden under the fire. Full 85 gel to help match the warm color temperature of the firelight. Tota lights plugged into flicker boxes with different pulses.
A 5k overhead with ½ blue to contrast with the warm firelight. Black skirts draped on sides of light.
2 mizer lights with full 85 gels on both sides of inside teepee doorway for backlight as he enters.
The exposure of the flicker varied from T2 toT5.6, so he exposed at 4 1/3, which will expose only a little bit over to quite a bit under.
When you have a hero in the scene you should give him just a little bit of his own lighting to help pull him out of the scene.
Dolly-in shot (in teepee) of two actors hugging.
- 5k with blue above.
- 5k with 85 & blackwrap with holes, & flicker box, aimed at the actors.
- Real firelight below.
IMAGE CONTROL by Gerald Hirschfeld, A.S.C.
Chapt. 1
This book gives the visual results of what happens to a color negative when certain techniques are applied.
Reduce normal print contrast by using low contrast print stock specifically designed for making prints for film-to-tape transfers.
The colors of a picture appear more saturated when surrounded by a black border.
Light flesh tones against a black backdrop seem more pale than in front of a white backdrop.An original color negative is almost never used to make release prints. It must be protected, so a duplicate negative is made, and it might be slightly different - such as contrast and color saturation.
Chapt. 2
Color response is:
- the color that the color negative produces
- negative density
- color saturation
- color contrast
- graininess
- color correction
Wall color affects the scene and the subject in front of it.
- A red dress in front of a blue wall creates a color interaction and a great color contrast.
- If the actress wears a shade of blue that complements the blue wall, a different and very becoming effect if created.
- If the wall is a warm gray, it's more pleasing in terms of color contrast.
- Favorite wall colors are shades of gray or off-white; most flattering to flesh tones and eliminates any interaction of color.
The most beautiful exterior scenes are filmed in bright overcast or hazy sunlight.
- Brightens shadows caused by harsh sunlight.
- A hazy sun low in the sky wrapes soft light around the subject.
If you have direct sunlight and no overhead silk to reduce the contrast ratio, fill light can be used by:
- an arc light
- HMI light
- reflectors
- a griffolyn
- bounce boards
In bright sunlight with no lighting equipment, use the sun as a backlight and set the exposure for shadow detail. (Opening the lens makes the background more out of focus.)
For a more dramatic feeling, let the sun crosslight the subject.
Soft light creates slightly muted colors, whereas direct light gives more saturated color: the difference between a cloudless day and a bright overcast.
By adding a low level of fog or smoke:
- spreads the light
- adds white light, thereby muting or desaturating the colors
- softens the look of the scene
- an additional illusion of depth is created
A similar effect can be created with camera filters.
Chapt. 3
For many years Fuji color was more soft, muted, less saturated than Eastman. After some cinematographers complained about blacks apearing dark gray in night exteriors, Fuji adjusted the emulsion losing some of the more muted colors. "This wasn't justified - could have just switched to Eastman when rich blacks were required."
Eastman EXR films have a greater underexposure latitude.
Exposure indexes that indicates the film's sensitivity of light:
- EI (exposure index)
- ASA (American Standards Association)
- ISO (International Standards Organization)
- EV (exposure value)
- DIN (Deutchen International Normanausschuss)
This exposure guide is based on creating a normal-density negative relative to flesh tone. Lab printing equipment has a light range of 1 to 50. The lab's "normal printer light range" is approx. 30-37 on their printer lights. The higher the number, the greater the intensity of light needed to print a dense negative. Actually the color negative is printed by an additive light proces with sources of magenta, cyan, and yellow light that, when blended together, create white light. A lab report might say 30-33-28, that means 30 magenta, 33 cyan, & 28 yellow. The more dense the negative, the higher the printer light number required for a normal-looking print. A less dense negative will print on lower numbers. Overexposing 1 stop requires 8 higher printer lights. For a normal-looking print; underexposing 1/2 stop requires four lower printer lights.
When underexposed and the lab tries to produce a normal print:
- Colors are not as saturated
- Blacks are a bit smoky or greenish or grayish
- If you are trying to create a moody night exterior or a low-key interior and the lab prints with higher printer lights, there will be true blacks, colors more saturated, mood would be low key.
Good black density is a product of the printer lights, not exposure. When overexposed and the lab prints on their normal lights:
- Bright print
- Colors a bit washed out
- Perhaps no black blacks
- Good for a very high-key effect
- For a normal look from the overexposed negative, the lab would use higher printer lights.
- You can create a more saturated color by overexposing
Overexposure (lower ASA) produces:
- finer grain
- higher color saturation
- slight increase in sharpness
- loss of highlight detail
- flattening of white
Underexposure (higher ASA) produces:
- more grain
- lower color saturation
- loss of sharpness
- loss of shadow detail
If you want a normal density negative, contrast can be increased by stopping down (F/11 to F/12). Less contrast with wider stops (F/4 or F/5.6).
Using NDs can give you normal exposure in bright sunshine with the lens wide open.
Chapter 4
Early B & W film emulsions were orthochromatic - not sensitive to red (women's lips looked black).
The first color features were made by the Technicolor process.
- The cumbersome Technicolor camera ran 3 strips of b & w film at the same time, each recorded a primary color: red, green, & blue.
Then Technicolor introduced mono-pack color film, which recorded a color positive image on one piece of raw stock. The positive was used to make 3
b & w color separation negatives that were printed by the standard Technicolor process.Film can handle a tonal range of about 140: 1; TV only about 40: 1.
Regular fog filters are made up of light-deflection particles.
- Scatters light (like a street lamp's halo in real fog).
- Gives the subject a bit of white light.
- Slightly mutes the color.
- Slightly softens the resolution, or sharpness, of the lens.
- Added a fringe of scattered light on the edge of any dark area with a bright background.
The double fog filter is like the regular fog without its objectionable characteristics. The lower the number, the weaker its effect (#1 thru #5). They also make fractional fog filters, such as 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, & even 3/16.
- For slight color desaturation, 1/4 thru #1 or #2 regular or double fogs.
- Favorite for "Diary of a Mad Housewife" was a #3 regular fog.
Regular fogs soften the resolution of the lens very slightly compared to double fogs, so he generally uses a 1/2 double fog, which slightly reduces the contrast while preserving the sharpness when filming for television.
Newer color negative & color print stocks were better, but more contrasty. So a low-contrast filter (low-con) was created - it reduces the tonal range of a scene by making the shadow areas slightly lighter.
- By underexposing 1/2 stop it won't desaturate the color.
- By overexposing 1/2 stop the low-con acts more fully on the dark areas, adding a bit of white light and muting the colors. This is if you want color desaturation.
- Low-cons have little affect on lighter pastel colors.
Exposure and printing play are important in both fogs and low-cons.
- Low-con sets range from #1 thru #5, also fractions available.
- Tiffens are stronger than H & H.
- Tiffen low-cons are better in strong backlight situations. Overall flare appears in H & H low-cons that causes a milky look.
- Low-cons are good when working multiple cameras, and you are trying to match contrasts with different cross-lights and backlights.
A light source in frame will often reduce contrast by itself, and hitting a low-con of fog can make the scene milky.
- A white net filter will cut down on the milkiness, but the darker colors will desaturate some.
Another way to match color desaturation is to have the negative flashed.
Fogs spread white light to all colors, the effect is of slightly increased exposure. By increasing the exposure 1/2 stop the desaturation effect is intensified.
If you increase exposure with a medium-density low-con filter and the lab prints a bit darker than normal, the increased effect you wanted might be eliminated. The same filter, with no overexposure, if the lab prints lighter than normal, desaturation is increased.
Medium to heavy low-cons mute both colors and black when printed on normal lights. However, if the printing is made 3 or 4 points darker than normal, the muting will not be apparent, but less contrast. This is called "printing through" the low-contrast effect.
An example: Clear sunshine creates contrasty dark shadows.
- Try an H & H low-con #2
- If the weather changes to hazy sunshine try switching to an H & H low-con #1.
- If the weather deteriorates more, try an H & H low-con #1/2 or a Tiffen low-con #2 or #3.
- If weather gets even worse, try no filter!
Fog filters affect dark and light areas.
Low-con filters lighten dark and shadow areas, but don't affect highlight areas.
Both are influenced by the brightness of the background. The background light strikes the filter particles and lightens the darker areas.
- If actors in medium tone clothes stand in front of a dark wall, you might use an H & H low-con #2 or a Tiffen low-con #3 or #4 to reduce the contrast for TV transmission. But with light walls you'll see that the effect is too strong on the actors.
On a bright day, judge the filter effect at about F/5.6. Indoors, if the exposure is about F/4 or F4.5, judge at about F/3.2
Low-cons or fogs can destroy the image sharpness of a telephoto or a very long lens. Instead, possibly try flashing or net material in front of the lens to reduce contrast.
A net of white threads with course openings will closely match a low-con filter. The wide mesh permits most of the usable light to pass unaffected, and the light that bounces off the white threads scatters into the colors and dark areas to reduce the contrast.
Tiffen now has other filters to reduce contrast:
- The ultra contrast filter - slightly brightens the shadows without creation flare or halo from lights in the frame.
- The pro mist filter - subtly reduces the contrast and slightly softens the image; the heavier filters slightly mute strong colors.
- The soft contrast filter - reduces contrast without affecting the black areas, and softens intense colors.
In general, the 3 types of filters are:
- regular fog
- double fog
- low-contrast
(all affect color and contrast with slightly different characteristics)Fog filters. A graduated fog filter is usually oversized so it can be shifted until the right position is found. A normal overall density fog filter, such as a regular fog #2 or #3, can be combined with a graduated fog filter to create many different effects.
When tungsten-balanced color negative (3200° K) film is used in daylight conditions, a #85 or #85B filter is used. Tungsten illumination is set at 3200° K for type B color films (35mm color negative) and 3400° K for type A color films (Kodachrome and Ektachrome).
Color temperature meters:
- The simpler meters register the relationship of red & blue.
- More sophisticated meters also indicate the filter or filter combination required for the correct light balancing.
(these are two color meters, because they only read red & blue, and can't read fluorescent lights which doesn't emanate from a heated black body or filament)- Minolta and Spectra make a three-color temperature meter which reads fluorescent light because it reads both the red/blue content and the red/green content.
Conversion filters:
- Amber filters, #85 & #85B shift color from 5500° K to 3200° K-3400° K.
- Blue #80 series used for daylight color film under tungston lights, shifts 3200° K to 4200° K - 5500° K.
Light-balancing filters shifts the light source color temperature in small degrees to balance the color of the light to the color sensitivity of the film.
- #82 series (bluish)
- #81 series (yellowish)
Color-compensating filters(cc) absorb excess amounts of undesirable color. There are six increasingly absorbant densities:
- yellow
- magenta
- cyan
- red
- green
- blue
Light balancing filters comprise two series of two different colors, one bluish, the other amber. On a heavy overcast day try a coral #1 or #2 with the #85 to warm the overcast light.
Color-compensating filters come in different densities:
- red
- green
- blue
- cyan
- magenta
- yellow
Fluorescent lights have no Kelvin rating. Has a high level of green.
- FL-B, balances fluorescent to tungsten type B (3200° K)
- FL-D, balances fluorescent to daylight (5600° K).
Optimum 3200° K is a tungsten balanced fluorescent tube.
Chroma-50 is a daylight balanced fluorescent tube.
The coral filter is popular. It has a warm brownish amber tone. Primary function is to add the warm atmosphere of candlelight or firelight to a scene.
- From #1 - #12
- Similar to CTOs
- C-5 = #85
- Two #85s or a C-10 are often used to add warmth to a sunset.
- A graduated coral-to-clear or #85-to-clear filter is often used to redden the sunset sky without affecting the foreground color.
- Use corals on overcast days when normal daylight is predominantly blue.
- Suppose the color temperature meter shows the overcast light to be 12,000° K, a C-3 will make it 5900° K, and the #85 will make it 3200° K.
- If overcast light is 9000° K or higher, filter your supplementary lights by placing a 1/4 or 1/2 CTB gel on the lamps, then use a coral on the lens.
Learn to judge by eye, but fluorescents are impossible.
In early daylight or late afternoon CTO gels can be used on HMIs, arcs, or daylight blue FAY lamps.
Always tell the lab which filters you used.
Corals can replicate oldtime photographs, which were made in sepia or bronish tones.
Denser coral filters remove more of the blue and green portions of white light and create a sepia tone.
Sepia tone is often used for flashback scenes.
For sepia tone scenes:
- An overcast day is best with muted colors.
- Avoid bright colors, particularly blues and greens.
- Use a heavy coral, #4 or #5 (#5 = #85).
- An additional chocolate reduses blues and greens, adds more brown tone.
- Add a regular fog #3 to soften sharpness and add an "old-time" feeling.
- If the scene is of normal brightness, underexpose 1/2 stop.
Exteriors for a Las Vegas, hot desert feeling, he used:
- C-3
- Regular fog #3
- #85
- Underexposed 1/2 stop
Interiors:
- C-2
- Regular fog #2
- Underexposed 1/2 stop
The underexposure eliminated the slight flare effect of the fog filters and enhanced the coral effect.
The combination of stronger filters made the exteriors appear hotter.
F/5.6 less contrasty than F/16.
- .30ND 1 stop
- .60ND 2 stops
- .90ND 3 stops
- 1.20ND 4 stops
Don't use two glass filters in front of the lens or a double gel filter behind the lens.
A graduated filter is a filter that is 1/2 clear and the other 1/2 is ND or color, or both.
ND-to-clear is primarily used for overexposed skies due to smog.
Viewing on the ground glass at the correct F stop will show if the demarcation between the ND and the clear glass will be visible.
- Especially with wide-angle lenses with great depth of field. If the line shows, open the diaphram until the line is so out of focus that it's almost invisible, then use an overall ND to correct the exposure.
- The closer the graduated filter is to the lens, the easier it is to hide the blend.
- For an invisible line, request a "soft blend".
- Blend lines are easier to see with short focal length lenses (wide- angles).
- Difficult to use with long focal length lenses - can't see the blend line. Must be far from the lens. Telephotos can't handle glass in front.
If the sky is gray or colorless try:
- #85-to-clear (85 on bottom)
- .60 ND-to-clear (ND on top). Cuts down sky 2 stops.
- Use tungsten balanced film, will record bluer on film.
- Or use a #85-to-60ND.
-OR-- Blue-to-clear
- Overall #85
- Your exposure should only compensate for the overall #85.
Made by Pancro-Mirror, Hirschfeld uses their filters for all ND requirements.
Blend lines not as apparent when the lens is stopped down.
Neutral Blended Ratio Attenuators (NBRA)
- A one-stop NBRA:
- .60ND (2 stops) at one end, clear at the other, .30ND (1 stop) in middle. Exposure compensation of only one stop is needed.
Example: green shrubbery in foregrond, house in middle (which is knocked down 1 stop), sky on top (which is knocked down 2 stops). Compensation for the one-stop filter factor gives the house normal exposure, green shrubbery overexposed one stop, and sky reduced one stop.Available in ratios of 1, 1 1/2, 2, 2 1/2 and 3 stops.
A Polarizer filter
- The polarizing filter's filter factor is usually 2 stops.
- Primarily used to darker a weak blue sky, which will accentuate clouds, and diminish unwanted reflections.
- For windshields, let the reflections partially superimpose themselves for a more realistic shot.
- Whitish or gray sky can't be darkened by a polarizer, try a blue-to-clear graduated filter, an ND-to-clear filter, or both. (However, not as effective)
- Identify the correct exposure by taking a reading with a spot meter through the filter.
- Increases color saturation, and might be one way to increase contrast when needed.
The effects created on the original negative are usually better than those created in post, unless they are special optical effects.
TESTING FILTERS
- Try an exterior, sunny, contrasty shot - possibly a white house with deep shadows surrounded by dark foliage.
- In frame shoot a gray scale, color chart, & slate.
- First shot shoot clean.
- Shoot first filter 1/2 and 1 under, then normal, then 1/2 and 1 over.
- A contrasty situation is fine for testing regular fogs, double fogs, and low-con filters.
- An overcast day is good to test corals, regular and double fogs. You might diffuse the filters.
- Try a person against a bright sky or wearing a white shirt and standing in front of dark foliage.
- Test with the sun over your shoulder in a flat light; then move so your subject is 1/2 lit and 1/2 shadow; then use sun as a backlight.
- Observe how the gray scale and color chart is affected by the filters.
- Try testing with no equipment or reflectors.
For every specific increase of exposure there is an increase in emulsion density - (the optical density of the negative emulsion.)
No exposure would result in a clear negative base with no density.
Overexposing to increase the negative density of the low exposure area also increases the densities overall. But fog & low-con filters add a bit of controlled whiteness to the darkest areas of the image, and reduces overall contrast. They increase the negative density, therefore, you can decrease the exposure by about 1/2 stop & still get a normal-looking print with reduced contrast. By overexposing a 1/2 stop, you also get more color desaturation with normal printing.
Recent Tiffen filters that can also reduce contrast:
- Ultra Contrast filter - will lower contrast by slightly brightening the shadow areas without creating any flare or halo from light sources within the frame.
- The ProMist filter - will subtly reduce the contrast and add a bit of softening of the image, and in the heavier filters will slightly mute strong colors.
- The Soft Contrast filter - will reduce contrast within the scene without affecting the black areas, and it will tend to soften intense colors.
Diffusers cannot be duplicated by a film lab. Should be an invisible effect.
Homemade diffusers shoud be made with optically clear, water-white glass. Try petroleum or plastic wrap, or spit.
The H & H regular diffusion filter reduces contrast substantially as it diffuses, and that combination can be flattering.
Tiffen's black net diffuses without affecting the contrast.
The white net affects both sharpness and contrast.
Nets of black thread don't affect the contrast or color.
Nets of white thread soften the image and reduce contrast.
Tiffen makes Softnet - has various weaves of colored netting.
Glass in front of a long focal-length lens distorts, a net works better.
White nets of various densities can match a long lens to a normal prime lens used with a fog or low-con filter.
Wide-mesh white net reduces the contrast of the image and affects the sharpness only minimally.
The net becoming in focus can be a problem, mostly with wider lenses and increased F stops.
Generally, the larger the close-up the heavier the diffusion. Check the diffusion effect through the ground glass at about the same lens stop you will use. Check for sharpness in the eyes. A small, sharp highlight often heightens the sharpness of the eyes.
812 Filter (Tiffen)
- Warming filter for cool (blueish) situations.
- Enhances natural skintones.
- Reduces blue from outdoor open shade.
- Requires less than 1/3 f-stop compensation.
Double Fog Filters (Tiffen)
- Creates misty flare and lower contrast.
- Images are sharper than regular fogs.
- Creates less flare and less contrast than regular fogs.
RANSOM AC (11-96)
Director Ron Howard (Apollo 13)
Cinematographer Piotr Sobocinski (Red)The faces are lit much more prominently than the backgrounds.
The actors appear and disappear out of and into the darker background.The light originates from the windows. 1,000K Dinos & Maxi-Brutes were placed far away with heavy frost diffusers near the set's windows. Sobocinski uses soft light often because he wants natural shadow, so the light doesn't feel artificial.
A long distance between the lamps and diffusers makes the light softer.
When floor-level lights were used a 6' x 4' egg crate cap on the soft light created key lights for two actors from one light.
Ransom was shot primarily on 5298, with some 5293.
No filters used at all.
The higher speed 98 lets you film natural reflections (tail light or cigarette) without being washed out by movie lights.
In "Red" Sobocinski used a little filtration, mostly black Tiffen ProMist, 1/8 to 1/4.
The main background is the color brown, the color of the woods. Brown is the gentlest version of red, and those two colors play together well.
16MM DEBATE (AC mag. 2-98)
For HDTV 16mm is acceptable if transferred with the Philips Spirit DataCine, a multi-format, multi-standard film scanner which can handle film resolutions up to 2K (1920 pixels/line). [see Post Process in A.C. mag. Sept. 1996]
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